It wasn't just a job, it was an Adventure
*I meant to post this as a draft - still updating*I remember the old Navy recruiting ad that ran in the 70s and 80s - “Navy. It’s Not Just A Job, It’s An Adventure” Truer words were never written. The best days of my life were spent in the Navy, on the open sea - or in a foreign port.
In the fall and winter of 1986 I was deployed aboard the USS Carl Vinson, at that time it was the newest active aircraft carrier in the fleet. I boarded the Vinson in Subic Bay around the 12th of September and we didn't return until after the new Year in 1987. It was a long and arduous journey but we had a few moments of enjoyment here and there. Living aboard a navy ship leaves a lot to be desired. At least on the carrier we had more of everything and even somethings the small boys did not have.
CVBG Charlie - USS Carl Vinson and friends, 1986 |
During our deployment, my first stop was a port visit to Singapore for 5 days (23-28 Sept). Singapore was a fascinating city state full of wonderful people from a wide variety of backgrounds. If you want to talk about a real melting pot, you should go to Singapore. It was, and I'm sure still is, a colorful and delightful place to visit. And very clean. It's almost unbelievably clean. I did far less drinking and partying in Singapore than my shipmates. I tried to wander around and soak up some culture. Of course, I was on a tight budget so I had to spend money wisely (or as wisely as a sailor on leave in Singapore can spend it).
I found a great food market -- like a food court at a mall but on a scale that rivals a small village. There was every kind of food imaginable from every country and city around the Far East. I met some locals who actually kept buying me samples from various stalls -- it was all open air like a carnival with stalls on both sides of a wide avenue and small tables and chairs scattered about. I had Thai, Indian, Chinese, and Indonesian dishes that I can't name. I probably didn't know what it was when i was eating it.
Food was only one thing I sampled -- I also found a great place to buy bootleg music. I know, the younger generations will think of Napster and whatnot (or maybe even that's too old a reference for them!) but back in my day it was 'mix tapes' and bootleg cassettes.
I bought plenty at this place and they were dirt cheap. Duran Duran, Mike and the Mechanics, The Dream Academy. You name it, they had it. It might have been like fifty cents for a buck each?
The ever present McDonalds, Singapore |
Michigan in a tiny town about 90 miles north of Detroit. As chance would have it, he knew right where this town, St. Clair, was located. And no, he didn't confuse it with St. Clair Shores as often happens with people who say 'oh, yeah, I know right where you lived' -- No you don't. As it turned out, he worked as a VP of something for Ford Motor Company's Far East Division and was transitioning some work from the Philippines to Singapore (Ford had determined that graft and greed were to much to deal with in the RP, go figure.) He and his wife offered to treat me to a home cooked meal -- Singapore style, and I graciously accepted. One thing I learned about traveling around on your first day of liberty wearing your dress uniform -- people would always treat you to something. Free dinner, free beer, free taxi rides. Of course, that was still 1986 and the world seemed like a much safer place back then.
After we left Singapore we made a transit through the Straits of Malacca and into the Indian Ocean. Fun fact: we had to have special security teams stand watch when traversing the strait due to piracy. Like some idiots in a small boat are going to attack the largest warship in the world? Anyway... we steamed across the ocean and arrived at Diego Garcia, one of the tiniest little islands in the middle of no where, and we spent a few days there as well.
Diego Garcia didn't have much going for it but they had a liquor store, a club (along with other recreational activities) and beaches. All sorts of beaches but most were off limits due to the fact that if you got too far away you were going to be swept away into nothingness... when i saw the movie Castaway with Tom Hanks I thought of Diego Garcia only I never saw a 'tall' spot on that island.
Diego Garcia, B.I.O.T - 1986 |
Our voyage continued as we operated throughout the Indian Ocean making anchorages off the coast of Oman a couple of times. We were reconnoitered randomly by the Indian Navy and the Soviet Navy -- which gave us something to do on those LONG and boring shifts. Twelve on, twelve off day after day with breaks only when we had a port visit. But that's not really accurate either because there was a long and drawn out "turn over" and subbing in for meals so you could end up working 14-18 hours a day. It's not like there was a lot to do besides work.
We anchored off the coast of Karachi, Pakistan around the 7th of November. Now I've smelled bad things in my life - the big landfill in New London CT that we used to visit to bring our big trash items, the Hong Kong harbor and the Pasig River in Manila, Philippines. All of those things left indelible memories in my mind. But none of that could rival the horrid stench that hung like a cloud over the entire city of Karachi. We could smell it when we were still 12 miles from shore. I can't even begin to imagine what living in that city would be like -- raw sewage, dead animals, industrial waste. I don't even think any combination of those could create such an unholy smell. At any rate, it's not even worth mentioning as they canceled liberty in that city (if it was ever really on the table).
Carl Vinson at anchor, Kenya 1986 |
A road in Mombasa, Kenya |
Guys willing to pose for photos in Mombasa |
Some of us went to lunch in a 'fancy' restaurant (complete in doors with no beggars or prostitutes approaching your table) where I ordered something called a "steak sandwich". To this day I have no idea what it was but it was tough as shoe leather and about as tasty.
Tourist Trap - Kenya Style |
Then we headed to Fremantle, Australia -- probably my most memorable and favorite port visit during my entire Navy career. We celebrated Christmas while anchored offshore - actually, since I didn't have duty I went ashore with my dirty civilian clothes to find a self service laundry. While finishing up I was approached by an Aussie family who chatted me up and eventually invited me to their home for Xmas dinner. I was really floored by their hospitality and I was amazed at their living conditions -- they had wild animals living in their home including the cutest little baby kangaroo that was rescued when it's mother got hit by a car. Roos in Australia are like deer in the US, only worse. Most of the cars I saw had what they call "Roo bars" on the front to protect them from roo strikes.
These people were super nice to me and even let me call my father back home in Michigan. It cost something like $7 or $9 a minute to call back home on a pay phone so this was a special treat.
I have to say, virtually everyone I met in Australia was extremely nice; except some of the guys in the bars / pubs. They didn't particularly care for the onslaught of American sailors (and Marines). But the women were very attracted to American men because, as they said, we were so much nicer to them.
I'm still hunting for the photos I took while in Fremantle. I know I have some but I've not been able to find them.
After Australia we headed north and went back to Singapore before returning to the Philippines in mid-late January of 1987.
Somehow, I managed to tell a long story that doesn't have much meaning and little to do with what inspired me to write about my experiences while attached to the Carl Vinson in 1986. However, it was a long and lonely voyage, although we obviously had plenty of opportunity to get out there and meet new people. Still, at the end of the day, it was a ship filled with lonely guys -- decades before the internet and facebook could be leveraged to connect with family. So many young, single guys pining for their girlfriends looking for any kind of distraction to pass the time -- and along came Abby.
Operation Dear Abby
I don't know the history of operation Dear Abby but I do know that when the bags of letters arrived everyone got pretty excited -- whether they were single or not; it was a wonderful relief from the boredom of shipboard life in a peacetime navy operating in the middle of nowhere.Towards the end of the deployment -- towards Christmas -- time we started getting shipments of mail with cards and letters from people back in the States through a 'Dear Abby' letter writing campaign they called "America Remembers - Operation Dear Abby II".
I found a bunch of cards and letters left behind after my shipments had gone through the packet looking for letters from girls who enclosed photos of themselves. This left a pile of letters from people who weren't young and pretty or at least they didn't enclose a photo advertising as much.
When no one else picked these letters up I gathered them with plans to reply to them individually. And, long story short, they got lost.
This past weekend, while going through some boxes of old military papers and personal letters I found a few of these cards. I don't think I can reply to them anymore... it's been almost 30 years. I imagine the people who wrote them have moved on. Perhaps some have passed on... who knows?
Above, a nice note from Brenda Pennington of Rockview West Virginia. She wrote about her family. Her husband was an unemployed coal miner and she ran a video rental store. |
Blannie McLeod, Detroit, Michigan |
I have more to post and I'll add them as separate updates as time permits.
No comments:
Post a Comment